Planet Textiles - new sustainability event

Bookings now open!

This exciting new event is dedicated to improving the environmental and social impact of the global textile and clothing supply chain - brought to you by the SDC, the publisher of Ecotextile News and Messe Frankfurt.

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Planet Textiles takes place on 18 March 2010 in Hong Kong and is supported by leading industry organisations and international clothing retailers. It is being launched in Hong Kong alongside the Interstoff Asia Essential fabric exhibition and will be an annual international event on eco-textiles, moving to different locations around the globe in conjunction with Messe Frankfurt exhibitions.

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The theme of the first event is 'Changing the Culture – Placing Sustainability at the Heart of the Organisation' and it will see representatives from some of the world’s leading clothing and textile companies addressing the very latest issues on sustainability throughout the textiles and clothing supply chain.

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The full line-up has been announced, with a keynote address from Cara Chacon (director of CSR, Patagonia, USA), who will discuss managing sustainable change in a major retail organisation and across the supply chain. The conference will hear executives from leading global companies, such as Adidas and Lenzing.

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There will be Q&A sessions during the day-long event, chaired by John Mowbray (Ecotextile News) and Andrew Filarowski (SDC technical director) and there will also be a parallel 'ask the expert' session, hosted by the main sponsor of this event Huntsman, on the topic of dyeing and finishing.

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The full programme and information about booking can be found at: http://www.planet-textiles.com/

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by CMcN

New SDC corporate colours

The SDC has a new visual identity – an identity that is evolutionary, rather than revolutionary, enabling the Society to move forward into the 21st century, whilst honouring its incredible heritage. This last year has seen the SDC positioning itself for the future, with a new vision and a new business plan in place. As part of the business planning process, a Board decision was taken to rebrand. It was felt that a strong, consistent identity which reflects our new vision was fundamental to the delivery of our business plan.

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Rationale for the new brand colours
The colours in the new SDC logo reflect the organisational values and vision: purple is included to evoke quality, encouraging thoughts of the highest standards; this is mixed with the efficiency, reliability and trustworthiness of blue; and rounded off with warm bright yellow and turquoise to emphasise the young, forward thinking aspects of the new brand.

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The process involved

A rebranding process was initiated, with the input of colour psychology consultants, Colour Affects, in regards to the colour choice for the new logo, working with designer Harmeet Sembi to bring together ideas that would result in a coherent corporate brand. It was seen as important to maintain the colour mauve/purple within the new corporate colours, with perhaps a slightly stronger hue. The significance of purple to the SDC is linked to Sir William Henry Perkin’s discovery of mauveive, the first synthetic dye. It was Perkin's recognition of the potential of mauve as a dye, coupled with his iron determination to commercialise it, that sparked that launched the modern synthetic chemical industry.

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The full palette

Therefore, in honour of Perkin and the colour he invented, purple remains an ‘SDC colour’, with a specific selection of colours available within the full palette. Every colour in the brand palette has a positive relationship with every other colour (this principle is at the heart of the Colour Affects System of applied colour psychology) and these are outlined in the new SDC branding guidelines (PDF file) which is available on the downloads section of the SDC website. Requests for a print-resolution logo can be sent to marketing@sdc.org.uk.

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by CMcN

Competition: colour and social responsibility

The SDC International Design Competition 2010 has been launched. The brief asks for a creative, imaginative and original use of colour in fashion or textiles, with a theme of social responsibility, which might see entrants answering questions along the lines of:

· What are the opportunities for incorporating elements of social responsibility into design?
· What impact does the choice of materials have on all the elements in the supply chain?
· How long are clothes expected to last? Does quality manufacturing provide for social responsibility?
· Natural dyes and fibres vs synthetic dyes and fibres – is it true that ‘natural’ always means better for the environment?
· What role does technology have?

Full details of the brief and the required deliverables are available to download from the SDC website, along with information on how to enter/competition rules. The competition is open to fashion or textile undergraduate students in the following countries:

// Australia // China // Hong Kong // India // Ireland //
New Zealand // Pakistan // Singapore // South Africa // UK

Tutors must pre-select three students per college to enter the regional heats. These will generally be held in the 2nd quarter of 2010 and dates will be announced when available. All country finalists will be invited to the grand final in London in October 2010 and will be in for a chance of winning the SDC Colour Design Award 2010, with a prize of £1000 plus the Veronica Bell Trophy.

If you want to find out more, please get in touch without delay!
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Image: cover of Sep/Oct 2009 issue of FRAME magazine which was jam-packed with colour-related items. More information at: www.framemag.com
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by CMcN

Environmental dyeing

Today sees the second part of the two-phase launch of the - first ever - SDC special interest group (SIG) which will have a focus of environmental dyeing.

It goes without saying that the dyeing and finishing sectors, historically, have been big energy users and often portrayed as using large amounts of energy and water and being a polluter through effluent. However, there is often a public misconception of the current industry, which, increasingly, is seeing the implementation of best practice policies resulting in evermore eco-efficient dyehouses worldwide.

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The SDC has a role to play in this area and through the engagement of strategic alliances with respected environment lobby and resource groups based globally, it will further allow for the promotion of best practice. A key objective for the SDC is to promote good ethical and environment working practice within the textile and coloration supply chain and, in this respect, ensures information and practical advice is available to members and the industry as a whole.

By engaging people with similar goals for the industry and providing one viable and trusted source for information on the topic the SIG will be able to influence the industry and create an environmental and sustainable industry for the future providing confidence for the consumer. It is open to anyone, anywhere in the world with an interest in this topic - which will be made possible by making use of digital technologies (a dedicated WikiSpace is now available).

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Anyone, interested in joining, please get in touch without delay!

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by CMcN

Colour: Design & Creativity

A new article has been published in Colour: Design & Creativity, the SDC online journal available at: http://www.colour-journal.org/. The study deals with the influence of the background on the colour appearance of images and the perception of these; read it here. Issue 4 of the journal is open for submissions and we are keen to hear from authors of regular research articles or review papers, or any artists/designers wishing to submit work to the gallery section. Please contact us at: editorial@sdc.org.uk
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Colour and design were also a key feature at the seminars held last week at the 100% Design exhibition in London, which were organised by Global Color Research/The Mix and featuring experts from a variety of backgrounds inluding GCR and NCS. The GCR stand was very inspiring, with visitors given the opportunity to predict their own colour trends for interiors (shown here).

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The NCS stand also was busy, with visitors checking out the new NCS Navigator brand new application system, which was being demonstarted on the stand and is available through the NCS website.

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Lots of other interesting exhibitors too, including textile designer Sophie Hedderwick, with her Reglo, recycled chair woven with neon wires pictured here.

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Texprint prize winners 2009

A whole host of deserving young designers received recognition as recipients of Texprint First View prizes in July. All the six prize winners are featured on ColourClick, with a full profile available of the Colour Prize winner to follow. Here we are happy to be able share their amazing designs, to delight and inspire!

COLOUR PRIZE: Lisa Stannard : : Profile
Degree: BA Textile Design
Manchester Metropolitan University School of Art

'“People, Places and Things” provide the source for original illustrations which inspire a sophisticated range of digital print designs'

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BREAKING NEW GROUND: Nicola Strathearn
Degree: MA Mixed Media Textiles Royal College of Art

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'Organic growths such as lichen and fungi inspire curious combinations of materials creating innovative and intriguing manipulated fabric designs'

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INTERIOR FASHION: Nancy Taplin

Degree: BA Fashion and Textiles Colchester School of Art & Design

'Embellished print designs informed by narratives drawn from an eclectic personal collection of cultural and historical emblems'

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KNIT: Hollie Maloney

Degree: BA Fashion & Textiles

University of Brighton

'Knitwear design collection inspired by the eco-architecture and the accidental colour within the photography of structure'

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PRINT PRIZE: Ruth Davis

Degree: BA Fashion Design

University of Northumbria

'“Tin Can Alley” celebrates the quintessentially British charm of Scarborough and its market vaults in a collection of screen-printed designs'

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WEAVE: Martha Steadman

Degree: BA Textile Design

Central St Martin’s College of Art and Design

'Traditional associations in the Welsh valleys. Double cloth “carthen” weaving influences a contemporary and personal woven design collection'

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The SDC is pleased to have supported the First View Exhibition for another year, and pleased also to have had a chance to meet all the 24 students who exhibited in London. Pictured below is the SDC chief executive Susie Hargreaves with the Interior Fashion prize winner Nancy Taplin, who was also the runner up in our very own global design competition this year (read more here).

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Good luck to all the prize winners when they exhibit their designs at Indigo (in Paris) in September and at Interstoff Asia (in Hong Kong) in October!

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by CMcN

Photos and feedback from the final in Goa

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Finalists on arrival in Goa
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The finalists (and organisers) in Goa it seems had a trip of a lifetime. And now here are some more photos and feedback from the whole trip. It is hoped that all the finalists felt that they came out of it (in some way) as winners – it was truly a life-changing experience for all these young designers.

With so many shared experiences and discoveries of new cultures, the focus of the competition – colour and sustainability in design – was also at the heart of many a lively discussion between the students. It was not only environmental aspects of sustainability that were considered but also social and economic, and for young designers, who are yet to taste the industrial world, there were some very good ideas put forward, as many industry experts agree.

On the first evening, the Indian finalist Bijal Vora (pictured), hosted a Mehendi session (henna tattoos) which was a great way for everyone to get to know each other. Bijal commented, on being invited to Goa, "When we were invited to Goa, many of my friends and family members told me that go to this beach it's very nice, go to that church it's very ancient and so on... But when I reached the venue and met other students, frankly speaking I didn't wanted to miss any opportunity of interacting with such talented students, teachers and SDC members."

All the finalists had an Ajrakh workshop (block printing with natural dyes), led by the expert Mr Abdul Razzak Khatri, a 9th generation Ajrakh printer of Kutch Dhamadka and a UNESCO awardee artisan.



This was most certainly one of the highlights for many, with everyone coming away with their own piece of printed fabric. Moipone Qekisi (from South Africa) sums up the experience, "The block printing workshop was the most exciting experience for me, meeting an Indian master craftsman who had passion for his art was very inspiring. In textile history we learned a lot about Indian textiles and block printing in particular. I felt very privileged to have been part of workshop that most students in my university would probably never get a chance to experience." A few of the finalists hard at work here (clockwise from left, Moipone, Nancy Taplin from the UK, Nabil Hasan Khan from Bangladesh and XiYue Zhao from China):




Next came the judging and all the finalists had a great respect for each of the judges: Latika Khosla, Sue Williams and Savio Jon. Nadia Khan (the finalist from Pakistan), commented, "The judges input was very insightful and all the finalists' work was extremely inspiring! I learnt so many new things from my time in Goa and I'm so grateful for this wonderful opportunity."

After the judging, the students were welcomed by the delegates at the conference and had to take to the stage!



The next day, there was a chance for the delegates to view the finalists' work during the exhibition prior to the awards ceremony [below: Erika Neumayer (USA) with her design boards in the exhibition, and XiYue Zhao (China); as well as Nadia Khan (Pakistan) and Angelina Anderson (Australia) discussing their work with delegates].

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And then came time for the presentation of prizes. First there was a presentation to Mr Abdul Razzak Khatri (who received a big cheer from the students!) and then all the finalists received a gift and certificate. Pictured below: Mr Rassak Khatri with Mr Rakesh Sachdev; CS Balajee (India) being presented with his certificate by judge Sue Williams; and all the students, with chair of the judging panel Latika Khosla, before they waited for the annoucement of the winners.

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Winning designs
As noted in the previous blog post, the second runner-up was announced Denise Wong (Hong Kong), the first runner-up was Nancy Taplin (UK) and the overall global winner and recipient of the SDC Colour Design Award 2009 was Moipone Qekisi (South Africa). Denise commented on hearing her name called out, "I could not believe what I heard! It is my name. I could not say anything in that moment and I was really happy. Besides the opportunity of enjoying the trip in Goa, the prize is an extra bonus to me."

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Nancy also comments, "For me the SDC global competition was an amazing opportunity to meet students and professionals from a broad range of countries, and to gain insight into and inspiration from a refreshing and exciting range of cultural outlooks and approaches to textile design and the use of colour. The final in Goa was an unforgettable experience, throughout which, and the competition as a whole, the SDC looked after us amazingly well. I am extremely grateful for the wonderful experiences I have had thanks to the SDC and their sponsors' generous support of emerging designers, and am thrilled to have been given the opportunity to forward my professional development in such a memorable manner."

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Here we find out a bit more about the winning designs.
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Denise Wong, Hong Kong Design Institute: In the surface pattern design process that the second runner-up Denise opted for in her entry, she created backgrounds using disperse painting and brush painting optionally. The resulting designs had an irregular feel which tied in with the title of her project, ‘Disorder’. Her inspiration came from environmental issues such as pollution and global warming and such natural disasters as tsunamis. Evoking high emotions, her ideas were also focussed on the material world in which people lived and the results of their actions which can lead to chaos and disorder. The colours which were applied in her designs were sophisticated, yet reassuring, natural and contemporary, reflecting organic colours from the earth with nostalgic hues. In her fabric development stage, she applied the patterns by heat transfer print as it is a sustainable printing method that can produce vibrant colours on a variety of surfaces. She chose a 100% silk chiffon fabric to allow a translucent, soft, fluid outcome and a distorted feeling when using the digital printing technique. This technology offers an attractive alternative to traditional design and production methods, with reduced waste and no harmful chemicals released into the air or water this lessening the environmental impact.

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Nancy Taplin, Colchester School of Art & Design: To create her designs, Nancy marbled water-based inks, isolated areas of each marbled page, and then scanned and manipulated the image to give her final design. Her fabric of choice was bamboo satin – sustainable due to its natural resistance to pests, rapid generation and prolific growth in the face of low levels of hydration – which, research showed, could be coated by the roll in preparation for digital printing. The areas of pattern were scaled and cut in a way that ensured little or no wastage of fabric, based on a system of tessellated fabric panels. The pattern pieces were then digitally printed and could be constructed into garments in which the falls of fabric echoed the prints’ fluidity of shape and colour. Evoking the feel and beauty of antique books and the patternation and vivid colours of butterfly wings, she took as her inspiration the exquisite specimens and library of an obsessive collector. Each of her prints explores the metamorphic qualities of colour; the marbled endpapers of antique books are key visual and methodological touchstones, but her designs are kept current by the unexpected juxtaposition of colour as warm, earthy hues are interwoven with vibrant jewel splashes and streaked fluorescents.

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Moipone Qekisi, Nelson Mandella Metropolitan University: The overall winning design by Moipone was inspired by children and their visions of a perfect world; in the midst of all the unrest around us, children still have a way of finding happiness and through their innocence, dreams and playfulness, Moipone’s designs were born. She took as her main inspiration a drawing workshop which she conducted at a children’s home in South Africa, after which she carried out research into the psychology of colour and chose colours that matched with what the children envisioned their perfect world to be like. From the drawings, she was able to capture their imagination and reinterpret some elements into her designs, opting for a large repeat-unit to create a dramatic design for use on interior furnishing fabrics. From a sustainability aspect, she opted for organic cotton as her fabric of choice – grown without the use of synthetic insecticides, herbicides or fertilisers – and took advantage of its natural colour in her designs. The fabric would be hand screen-printed using eco-friendly permaset water-based inks that do not contain ozone-depleting chemicals or any harmful substances.

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Now, just a few words from the winner, who received £1000 as well as the trophy as part of her prize:

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Thoughts about winning: "I feel very humbled, blessed and honored to have been chosen as the SDC winner for 2009. Winning comes with a lot of responsibility, I have been entrusted with a large amount of money that I have to use responsibly. My perspective on life has been changed. I have been given an opportunity that most young designers will never experience in their careers and I do not take that lightly. I believe my career has just started."
How I will spend my prize money: "I have had a dream for as long as I can remember to start an art centre where underprivileged people will be trained in different arts and craft in order to eradicate poverty by creating job opportunities. It’s a big dream I know, but thank God for the SDC who has given me a head start! As I have said in the beginning, winning came with as lot of responsibility. I have no excuses now; it’s now time for me to start moving. The money will be used to make this dream a reality."
Goa experience: "The trip to India was the first time I have ever been outside South Africa; it was quite an experience I have to say. I was excited to spend time with young people who share the same passion that I have for fashion and textiles. I was very impressed with all the work that was presented by the other students and at the same time I was blown away by the amount of creative thinking that had gone into making each art work, wow! I made friendships with young aspiring designers from around the world; we got along so well one would swear we had known each other for years. This was a trip of a lifetime, I can’t help it but feel blessed, I’m just so grateful."

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The inspiring designs of these up and coming textile designers certainly fill us with hope for the future, when incorporating sustainable thinking into design will perhaps become second nature for forthcoming generations of designers. With the introduction of this technical element into the SDC colour design competition – demonstrating to students the interdependence of creative and technical disciplines – it will hopefully inspire anyone working in the field of colour design to be extremely conscious of best practices. The 2010 competition will be launched in September. Email us for details!

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by CMcN